i climb into her tiny VW polo with one of her assistants, and we proceed on a wonderful hour-long guided tour of the lakes of southwest munich. we glide through little villages with green grassy fields with the alps in the background - it seems made up.
we arrive at a larger lake and decide between one of the 3 idyllic biergartens on the shore. there's a guy grilling big troutlike fish heads and all on big silver skewers that go from mouth through tail (i found out it's called stecklerfish). he shows me a picture of his aquaculture farm. i pick the fattest one. and a giant pretzel twice the size of my head. the fish is served in wax paper with a teeny tiny useless toothpick like fork thing. we sit at a bench on the water, an unusual strong wind blowing hair into my mouth. i don't care about my hair, i'll eat it too, this is delicious. moist, salty, garlicy, parsley-y, everything falling off the bone.